I made my first trip to Japan last January,for the new year's holiday. As a tattoo artist I always was fascinated about japanese culture, and, as a iaido student this interest has become even higher.

The main focuses of this trip beside exploring (and tasting) a bit of Japan were to meet a tattoo artist in Yokohama, meet a japanese friend that have an italian pizzeria in Ako (the city of the 47 ronin story, and best pizza outside Napoli, till now...) and buy a Iaido uniform and a Iaito sword, and not in this order...

So we went in Tokyo and Kyoto and around with the Japan Rail Pass, very useful, valid for a week or more on almost every shinkansen (the super fast train) and on some metro line in Tokyo.

Kyoto is a beautiful city that maybe better than Tokyo keeps on the same level a look on the tradition from the past and the modern look of today's Japan, the main train station is an example,and going around and see at every corner in the middle of modern buildings, temples, shrines, and many people in the streets dressed in kimono and realize that is not a tourist thing, it's nice, it's the tradition.
I had a couple of addresses for buying a Iaito but when I did aikido I bought a bokken from Tozando (in internet) and I was happy with it so I decide to go to their shop.

Tozando has two shops, the one specialized in Iaido is the shogoin store, there is a map on their website with the direction for the metro, but I found that the bus is better.. this bus is the same that goes to some of the main temples in Kyoto, very crowded of tourists but easy to use!

The bus is the »206« starting from the central station (pay the ticket at the bus driver when going out) exit at KUMANO SHRINE (adress: Sanno-cho Shogoin Sakyo-ku, Kyoto) bus stop on Igashiogi dori then walk BACK to the crossing just passed with the bus, the big road is MARUTAMACHI DORI turn LEFT and you will find the Kyoto Handicraft Center (that sells iaitos too) and Tozando Shogoin Store just across the street (it's on the right side).

I would like to say that the comment on the staff at Tozando that are in some website forums are true. They are really helpful and relaxed, one of the guy from the staff that was there he did not speak any english but helped me a lot with the suggestion for the right size and material for the gi and the hakama, I bought a cotton gi, supposed to be for summer but is working good in the Hamburg winter as well!

Ms Haruko helped me with the Iaito choice, she showed me many model for the lenght i needed and explains all the details and prices, they have also a small garden in the back of the shop to try the swords. (if is not raining!)I was thinking about buying a custom one, they make it in about 8 weeks, but, in the end, I decided for one of the sword I touched, maybe a bit heavier than the average iaitos, but my feeling was that this was »my« sword. I had to go back to Italy after Japan and then back to Hamburg, so I asked them to ship the sword via ups, was not too much expensive and took just three days, BUT the german custom taxes NEEDS to be taken in consideration …

The best is buy and carry in the airport, with some good wrapping should be no problems, Iaitos with blade in alloy are »imitation sword« only for display.. same as a souvenir …

Tozando is located in walking distance from the SHOUREN IN temple, one of my favourite in Kyoto, not too crowded and with that peaceful feeling that is rare to experience in the main temples (too many noisy visitors sometimes). Just walk away from the shop and turn on the left following the bus route on the way back, there is also a small restaurant across the street that brings to the temple (near the school), owned by some nice old women, they serve one of the best tempura I ever had...feeling hungry after some sword action, and before taking a rest in the temple garden …

Marco Lopez
(Iaido-Nord HTBU)